RC Helicopter flying, RC Cars and RC boating

Made for other people and me to track what I am doing when with my remote controlled units. It started out with helicopters. Hence the name.

If only one of my units is of interest, this unit can be clicked on the right and only posts regarding that unit shows up.

This blog is open for comments so feel free to leave a comment.

I won a Mercedes :)

1/14 Mercedes Bens SLS AMGPosted by xilsoe Jan 10, 2018 21:19:45
In the Christmas bingo at work I won a Mercedes. More precisely a Rastar 1/14 Mercedes Benz SLS AMG remote controlled car in red.

So I guess this will be my very short review.

When I got it home I first put some batteries in it to try it out. Five AA batteries in the car and a 9V in the transmitter. What I learned from trying it out: The drive train seems OK. Motor and gearing is done well enough to drive the car without cutting off all the time. It has a differential so turning isn't too bad. There is some kind of suspension on all four wheels, but no damping. Range of the remote is about 5 meters. Speed control is max throttle or off (Which isn't very fast). Steering is max turn ratio or straight ahead. So in my view the electronics can be improved.

The looks of this car is quite good. A quite good looking body and some fine interior with doors opening. No windows in the doors though. It seems that the looks is supposed to sell this car. Lights in head and tail lights do shine through the body though.

Because of the good looks and the decent drive train I have decided that I will try upgrading the electronics and touch up the body to make it look even better. So this car is for me and not for my kids.

The first ting was to take this car apart. 8 screws have to be removed to take the body off. Then the antenna and the lights are secured to the body. The lights had been glued using some hot glue. This could easily be pulled apart. The antenna is fixed in the roof. This means that the body needs to be disassembled even more before the body and the chassis could be completely separated.

So far I have applied some TAMIYA panel liner to the body and painted the inside of the body black. This is what I think should be done to the body. Then I plan to put in a Spektrum receiver, add a steering servo and use an ESC to control the speed. The receiver and the ESC will most likely be easy. In order to use a servo for steering I will probably need to modify the steering mechanics which will require some more work.

Some pictures of this car:

Now I am waiting for the ESC and some turnbuckles to arrive in the mail before I can do more. Thanks for looking. Hope you enjoyed smiley

  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post517

UNIMOG door handles

Tamiya CR-01 UNIMOGPosted by xilsoe Jan 09, 2018 21:10:03
Some time ago I did some 3D modeling in order to make some door handles for my UNIMOG as I think this is one of the shortcomings of this body.
I don't have the skill to make the perfect 3D model so some post 3D printing work was needed on the handles themselves as have made them rectangular and they should be triangular. Search the net for pictures of UNIMOG door handles for reference. I can't put them here because of copy rights.

After receiving the 3D print I first had to cut the two handles apart so I could work with them separately. Then I used a needle file to shape the handles triangular instead of rectangular and to remove the remains of the connecting block.

Then I painted the handles black using Humbrol 33. When the black paint had set, I decided to test mount the handles on my UNIMOG body. To do that I used a small (0,6mm) drill and a pointed reamer. I started out drilling the rear hole. The handles are marked on the UNIMOG body so positioning is quite easy. Then I used the reamer to carefully expand the hole until the rear mounting pin would go in. With the rear pin going into the mounting hole, I could pin point the location of the front hole and repeated the process from the real mounting hole.

With the handles test mounted I could see how much of the handles should be green to match the body, so I used a small brush to paint the green part of the handles. Later I removed the handles and put on a second green coating (Humbrol 117).

Finally I put the handle back in place and secured them using Silicone.


Unfortunately I had mounted some wires for the lights exactly inside one of the door handle locations, so I had to cut the wires loose and now I have to repair the wires so I don't get a short circut.
The 3D print I created can be bought from here: https://i.materialise.com/shop/item/unimog-door-handle-for-scale-1-10

Thanks for looking smiley

  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post516

Putting strips on Jenny

Aero-naut JennyPosted by xilsoe Dec 26, 2017 15:19:00
As I am not really a fan of the stained hull Jenny has, I decided to put some strips on the sides of the hull. I found some 10x0,5mm mahogany strips. This was the widest strips I could find that were still very slim. If I had found some wider strips I would have picked those instead. Further mahogany seems to be the only kind of wood offered in this very thin format. Otherwise I might have picked another kind of wood.

The hull already had been given some layers of lacquer, so I also gave the strips a layer of lacquer on both sides. Then I sanded the strips and the hull very gently. The strips were easily cut to length using a scissor. Finally I glued the strips to the sides of the hull using CyanoAcrylate. Very easy to get them to stick. Much easier than what I experienced building the Phantom. If I was to build the Phantom again, I would definitely put some layers of lacquer on the hull and mahogany strips before gluing them to the hull.

Now I have some sanding to do and I still have some gaps to fill in the hull before I proceed. I should probably put some more lacquer on the mahogany before trying to fill in the gaps so the glue won't mess with the mahogany. At some point I will make the mahogany bright and shiny as I did on the Phantom. Hopefully I know how to do it faster this time, but it will probably take at least 10 layers of lacquer before I am done.

Some pictures:
Thanks for looking smiley

  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post515

More Jenny build pictures

Aero-naut JennyPosted by xilsoe Nov 21, 2017 20:54:24
After a little search the pictures I promised have been found. These pictures show how I used rubber bands to hold the sides in place while gluing them.

Here are the pictures:

  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post514

Started building Jenny

Aero-naut JennyPosted by xilsoe Nov 19, 2017 20:03:19
Some time this summer I started building the Aero-naut Jenny. So far I have just been following the instructions. As I don't have lot of time for my hobby, progress is slow and I have not been taking a lot of pictures.

Here are a few pictures of the hull the stern being glued on, using a lot of rubber bands:

I also have some pictures of the sides being glued on that I will soon post.

  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post513

UNIMOG on trail drive

Tamiya CR-01 UNIMOGPosted by xilsoe Oct 16, 2017 20:02:54
Yesterday I took the UNIMOG trailing with the local trail group. It was in one of the members garden and one of the guys made a nice video. Thanks:

The UNIMOG can be seen at 2.30. The UNIMOG performed flawlessly and was a pleasure to drive.


  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post512

80ifying the Bruiser

Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Aug 02, 2017 20:59:37
Finally I have managed to get an after market decal set for the Tamiya Mountaineer with the purpose of 80ifying the bruiser. I always thought my Bruiser was a little dull looking and I thought the colours in the Mountaineer decals would match the off white body colour.

I only used a few of the decals as I am afraid it will be too much. I can always add more decals if I want to.

Here are some pictures:


  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post511

Tightening the Bruiser slipper clutch

Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jul 29, 2017 12:54:29
Last week I found the time to take the gearbox out of the Bruiser so the slipper clutch could be tightened. Not so much to taking the gearbox out. It seems to be designed for easy removal. I did have to cut some cable ties I had added so the cables wouldn't be all over.

When doing this kind of thing it is always nice to have the manual at hand. This will show how things comes apart and goes back together. One frightening thing I found when I had taken the gearbox apart was that a shim and a bearing was missing.

Apparently I had assembled the gearbox wrong when I put the slipper clutch in. The Bruiser had been running fine even without the missing parts, but now i have put them in as I believe it is better to have the gearbox assembled correctly.

I haven't tried the Bruiser out in terrain yet so I don't know if I am content with this adjustment. The test run indoor does however show that there is much less slip in the slipper clutch now. So this operation was definitely an improvement.


  • Comments(0)//heliblog.moller-ilsoe.dk/#post510
Next »