Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Aug 02, 2017 20:59:37 Finally I have managed to get an after market decal set for the Tamiya Mountaineer with the purpose of 80ifying the bruiser. I always thought my Bruiser was a little dull looking and I thought the colours in the Mountaineer decals would match the off white body colour.
I only used a few of the decals as I am afraid it will be too much. I can always add more decals if I want to.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jul 29, 2017 12:54:29 Last week I found the time to take the gearbox out of the Bruiser so the slipper clutch could be tightened. Not so much to taking the gearbox out. It seems to be designed for easy removal. I did have to cut some cable ties I had added so the cables wouldn't be all over.
When doing this kind of thing it is always nice to have the manual at hand. This will show how things comes apart and goes back together. One frightening thing I found when I had taken the gearbox apart was that a shim and a bearing was missing.
Apparently I had assembled the gearbox wrong when I put the slipper clutch in. The Bruiser had been running fine even without the missing parts, but now i have put them in as I believe it is better to have the gearbox assembled correctly.
I haven't tried the Bruiser out in terrain yet so I don't know if I am content with this adjustment. The test run indoor does however show that there is much less slip in the slipper clutch now. So this operation was definitely an improvement.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Apr 21, 2017 21:18:30 As I finally had all the parts to install the PCB I designed, I updated the lights installation. 18 LEDs give a lot of soldering when wires and connectors are attached. I have completed it and I am happy about the result. Should a problem occur, it will be much easier to isolate and fix the problem. Further the wiring is much better in my view.
The wiring is in no way protected from water so I'll have to keep this car away moist
Here are some pictures of the PCB and the LEDs installed in the body:
This completes my Tamiya Bruiser build log. Future updates regarding the Bruiser will be modifications, repairs, upgrades, usage experiences and other posts relevant to this car.
I hope somebody on the big internet will find this build log interesting and useful
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Apr 02, 2017 21:00:45 As I stated earlier, I wasn't very happy with the lights installation I had done, so now I have made a PCB for doing power distribution. Basically it is a lot of connectors and resistors and a fuse. I have all the components for the board, but I am still missing some parts for the connectors so I haven't installed it in the Bruiser yet. I did however put components on one of the boards. The price for one board was the same as for 10 boards, so now I have 9 boards I don't use.
If anyone reading this is interested in one of the boards, please write a comment to this post stating so. Otherwise they might come in handy to me for other projects.
I know this is a simple board, but I am mighty proud of it anyway :) Now I am looking forward to having it installed in the Bruiser.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Mar 30, 2017 20:46:57 After some thinking and research I decided that 3D printed metal would be the best way to widen the track width of the front wheels on my Bruiser. So I opened openscad and designed what I call a hex extender. It is designed to match a 12mm hex and has a 5ø bore that allows a 5mm M4 barrel nut to fit in.
Before this can work, a hex conversion such as the RC4WD kit is needed. Then I used barrel nuts from a kit named: Aluminum Alloy 12mm Wheel Hub Hex Drive Adaptor +10mm Offset SCX10 WRAITH Black i bought off ebay. It might also be possible to use longer wheel axles. I didn't experiment with that
The barrel nut fit very tightly into the extender so I ended up using a needle file to enlarge one of the extender bores. Further I put some grease in the bore of both extenders to avoid binding.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Feb 12, 2017 21:22:41 After a lot soldering I have finally installed lights on the Bruiser. 18 LEDs call for a lot of soldering. I am not very proud of how the the wiring looks, so I am not going to show it, I know I have at least one bad connection. Instead I am looking into having a PCB purpose made for power distribution. I am talking with an electrical engineer at work about how to do it. Making PCBs myself is something I would like to be able to do for this and other projects. I see it as a very useful skill to possess.
The beier-electronics USM-RC2 is very capable of making the lights just right. Light intensity can be adjusted for each output so it isn't necessary to calculate resistors and replace these to make adjustments. Furthermore there is a lot of modes and settings designed for controlling car lights so I am quite happy with this unit.
Regarding the tail lights: TAMIYA didn't make light buckets for the different colours of tail light. For this reason I added some small plastic strips inside the tail lights to separate the different lights. The most troublesome one is the reversing light as this is white will spread to both indicator and rear lights. To reduce the problem further I also reduced the reverse light intensity significantly. Regarding colours I believe it is better to use coloured LEDs in the colour the light is supposed to be. Relying on the coloured/painted plastic lenses and white LEDs may not give the best result
Here are some pictures of the HiLux with lights on:
I'll start looking into having this PCB made and perhaps increasing the track width of the front wheels. Otherwise it may be time to start looking into another project, enjoy running this car and show it off