Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jan 27, 2017 20:32:40
As I was waiting for some cables to put lights in the Bruiser, I decided to make a set of license places. I have modelled them over the way truck license plates looked in the 80's in Denmark. The registration number is fictional. I bought the license plate reflective stickers off ebay and made the frames myself. Then I found some 2mm vinyl letters on ebay as well.
The frames are made of two layers of polystyrene sheet. I cut a hole in the top one to fit the license plate in and glued it on the bottom one. Then the frame was painted and the license plate stickers were fitted. After that I used the 2mm vinyl letters on the frame. Finally the license plates were fitted to the body using double sided tape.
Here are some pictures:
I have also learnt that I can use the dual rate on the transmitter to control more functions in the multi function module. Dual rate is however only available on channel 1 to 4 on my transmitter so I had to re-arrange some wires in the car to free up these channels.
Unless I can invent something more to do to this car the lights will be the next thing to do. I have bought a UTP network cable and a USB cable that I'll cut up and use for the wiring.
Thanks for looking
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jan 16, 2017 20:28:08
Last week I found some time to install a multi function module in my HiLux. Once again I have chosen the Beier-electronic USM-RC2 as I have also used in my UNIMOG. This module has so many options that I haven't used in the UNIMOG. As the HiLux has so many lights, it is obvious to use this module as it will give me lots of control.
The USM-RC2 takes 4 input channels. To make the wiring simpler I bought an S-BUS decoder. This means that I only need a cable with 3 connectors going from the chassis to the body. Two wires for power and one for signal. Now I just wish that the USM-RC2 would accept an S-BUS signal so I could eliminate the S-BUS decoder. That would make the wiring even simpler and could give more options in the USM-RC2.
I didn't install lights yet, though I have the LEDs I need. I bought a set of diffused 3mm LEDs in different colours as I hope these will look better than the clear LEDs.
The sound module doesn't come with HiLux sounds. Instead I have used sounds from a Ford F350. Somebody probably put a Ford V8 in a HiLux. The transmitter needed some set-up to make it work right with with the USM-RC2. Now I have the idea of using the dual rate to allow me to control even more functions.
I also put some Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color on. I think it helps define the body parts and the hinges and latches on the tail gate. Especially it looks well at a distance. It was quite easy to use,
Here are some pictures of it all:
I think the next thing will be to make the lights. Otherwise I also have to make a set of license plates.
Thanks for looking
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Dec 14, 2016 20:44:21
As my brother suggested, I have painted the inside of the body in satin black (Humbol enamel 85). I couldn't get to all places on the inside body, but all places I could access have been painted black. The only place I didn't paint is the inside of the cabin. That is left unpainted so far. The paint on the inside of the body made me want to paint the axles as well. I think they would look better if these were also painted. I might do that at some point.
I learned that the CC-hand mirrors aren't very durable. I have broken both without much effort. I'll fix them with some brass rod. That should make them last. Then I have finally put Velcro on the body mounts, so now I can fix the body to the chassis. I needed the inside body paint, before the Velcro could go on.
Then I have received a light and sound module. So this will probably be one of the next things I will look into.
Here are pictures of the inside of the body and the broken mirror:
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Nov 30, 2016 20:45:49
After getting the body into a state that is OK with me, I decided to do the RC4WD hex conversion. The front was straight forward and easy. I can't however say so for the rear. The issue that caused me most trouble was that the rear shafts fit very tightly into the differential gears. To get the differential gears onto the shafts, I ended up using a vice.
When I used the vice, I ended up getting the differential gears too far onto the axles, so I had to get them back out a little more. To do this I had to take the rear axle apart and even take the differential apart. This meant that I couldn't follow the assembly instructions from TAMIYA as parts had to go together in a different order when the differential gears are attached to the shafts.
The reason to do a hex conversion is to be able to use different wheels and tires. Right now I have put on a set of Pro line 1.9 XL Super Swampers. These are mounted on a set of G-made VR-01 wheels. In the centre I have put on a set of G-made wheel hubs. The bolts in the wheels have been replaced with some stainless steel hex head bolts whereas the nuts are the original ones that came with the wheels.
The RC4WD hex conversion doesn't fix the wheel offset problem. I do have some ideas on what to do about it. Currently my intention is to widen the track width at front so I won't need to modify the original parts.
Some pictures with the new wheels:
Now I think I'll start looking into some electronics for sound and lights as this car just wants exactly that
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Nov 22, 2016 20:52:03
After the bruiser body came back from my brother, who has painted it (Thanks!), I have been adding body parts and painting the small details on the body. Now it is almost done. I still need to paint it on the inside and to mark up the recessed lines around the doors and similar.
I had some special red lettering made for the tailgate as red is what works best on a white body. This was done by ebay seller adrianfirst
I didn't put on any lines or stripes as it will always be possible to do that with a white body. By the way, the body isn't completely white. It is a little off. The exact colour is Tamiya TS-7.
I also bought some 1/12 scale music instruments to have something to put in the bed.
At some point I would like to add light to this truck, and perhaps I will put lights in the cabin to light up the details in there. I already have some LEDs for adding lights. If I was to re-do the interior, I would pick a lighter colour to make the interior more visible from the outside.
Pictures are the best description of what I have done. Have a look:
I think the next thing will be to make a hex conversion so I can select the wheels I prefer. I had a look at the RC4WD Yota axles, but they seem to have locked differentials which I am trying to avoid. So I'll have to find another solution if I am to do something about the different width of the axles.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Oct 26, 2016 17:02:41
After some research and time spent getting ideas, I decided I wanted agent Smith (From the Matrix) to drive my HiLux. He would make a quite insane driver and he doesn't strike me as one who would be wearing a seat belt. So no reason to do seat belts.
I ordered an agent Smith from ebay, but decided he didn't fit very well into the driver's seat and his head was undersized, For this reason I decided to modify the original driver figure into agent Smith as he would definitely fit well into the seat.
Using the figure from ebay and pictures from the internet I modified the figure using needle files, polystyrene sheet, filler some framing from PE parts and needles. Here is the result:
I know he isn't perfect, but this is the best I could do for now. Note the sunglasses and the missing ear piece. This indicates that this is after agent Smith has been "liberated" by Neo. Also note that the suit isn't completely black. Instead it is slightly green as is the fabric of the matrix.
Then I wanted to get him a gun. The standard gun for agents of the Matrix is a Desert Eagle. I could however not find one in an appropriate sacle, so he will end up with some other gun.
I hope you like him as much as I do and look forward to see him drive my HiLux
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jul 18, 2016 21:03:16
In order to keep the body mount hidden, I have made some modifications to the way the body mount was designed. As I believe I have mentioned before, I intend on using Velcro to mount the body. I haven't put the Velcro on as the body hasn't been painted yet, but I have made the mount points where the Velcro is going.
To have some area to mount the Velcro on, I bent some pieces of aluminium and used M3 spacers to lift them from the chassis. This way of mounting the body also means that I can adjust the body height if I decide to lift or lower the body. Right now the body height is about the same as it originally was. It may be more relevant if I decide to put some different wheels on the HiLux.
In order to make it easy to mount the body correctly with Velcro, I have put some guides below the body so it will only go on in the correct place. These guides can be seen in the pictures below.
Here are some pictures of the body mounts:
Thanks for looking. I hope it was useful
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jun 13, 2016 20:39:31
In order to allow the bed to be lowered, I have done some modifications to the electronics box. First of all I have cut the top off. That is absolutely necessary in order to make room for the lowered bed.
Then I needed to find some more room for electronics. I chose to replace the gear shift servo with a micro servo. There shouldn't be a lot of load on that servo so no problem in using a micro servo. As I am running the receiver on 2S LiPo I needed a high voltage servo. I ended up buying a HiTec HS-5070MH as that was what was available to me in Europe.
Due to the nature of changing gear I thought it was important to use a servo saver, I ordered a few, but found that the Team Associated part no. 21049
will go on this servo. The arm was too short and the ball link ball wouldn't fit onto the arm, so I made an extension out of a small piece of aluminium I had lying around. See the pictures below.
To get the servo mounted I made a mount out of aluminium that goes in place of the original servo support beams and to get the servo height right, I used some M2 spacers to lift the servo from the mount. (I bought a package of M2 spacers in various lengths from ebay)
After re-adjusting the gear shift as the manual describes, I installed the ESC and the receiver, so now I have the Bruiser is running again. I do however still need to complete the body and get the body mounts completed.
Here are some pictures of the updated RC installation:
So I'll have to do something about the antennas. Otherwise the electronics is done for now (That is until I start adding lights and sounds)