Robbe Sea Wolf V2Posted by xilsoe Apr 13, 2012 21:02:57 Today I concluded testing of the Tic Tac box I have prepared. Plexiglass on the bottom in front of the camera lens. Secured with silicone. The lid also sealed with silicone. That wasn't enough so I also sanded the outside of the lid with grain 800 and then applied a layer of lacquer. Around the box and the lid I inserted some Vaseline. That seems to work.
Some pictures from my test:
After two days of submersion I didn't find any water inside the Tic Tac box. So I believe I am ready to put the camera inside.
Thanks to Tic Tac for helping me getting a Tic Tac box
Robbe Sea Wolf V2Posted by xilsoe Mar 21, 2012 18:03:37 A few pictures of my new camera that I intend to build into a Tic Tac box. It seems there are two Tic Tac box sizes: one for 100 and one for 33. I have the 100 box but would like to have the 33 box as it is smaller.
I hope to produce some video in the not too distant future.
Robbe Sea Wolf V2Posted by xilsoe Dec 02, 2011 19:50:38 Fortunately balancing and polishing wasn't too long so that was done in one or two hours. Neither was it too hard to get the prop back in place. This time I fitted two Teflon washers to the prop shaft. Before the prop shaft had too big wander and now I actually have Teflon washers to fit in.
Here are some pictures of balancing, polishing and mounting the prop:
Tomorrow I'll go to the swimming lanes and try it out. Then I'll know if it was worth it?
Robbe Sea Wolf V2Posted by xilsoe Nov 30, 2011 18:49:04 For some time I have been concerned with motor temperature in my Robbe Sea wolf. I find that the heat sink helps out, but the motor is still quite warm after usage.
For this reason I decided to try improving the propeller. I noticed that the leading edge of the blades is quite wide and blond, so I decided that the first treatment would be to sharpen the leading edge. For this I am using a set of needle files.
Here are some pictures of the prop before and in the process:
I probably didn't know what I was in for when I started. So far I have spent about one hour on each blade, totalling about 6 hours
The trailing edge could also be sharpened. As far as I understand that is recommended for submerged drive propellers. That will be another time.
To complete the prop improvement I'll need to balance the prop and complete the job by polishing the blades. Hopefully I have done the most work by now. The prop needs to be ready for Saturday, when I am taking the Sea wolf to the swimming lanes.
I'll post an update on the completion and on performance.
Robbe Sea Wolf V2Posted by xilsoe Feb 18, 2011 20:11:30 The water cooling heat sink for the Sea Wolf arrived earlier this week, so I decided to make water cooling for the sub this week, instead of working on the New Jersey. There was two tricky things about doing this.
The first one was to drill the holes in the WTC rear seal. No electric drill could get to the seal, so I used a pen wise. That gave me two 3mm holes, that needed to 4mm. That was tone with a needle file. Another tricky thing was that the drill would slip on the seal, so I put a piece of tape on the seal. That fixed that problem.
The other thing was how to place the heat sink on the motor and still have it inside the WTC. I found that I would have to remove the motor to slide the heat sink on from the end. Then I found that the water tubes should be placed downwards. That would allow closing the submarine without me having to do any modification. The placement can be seen in the pictures.
I put some 4mm brass tubes through the holes and made a hole in the bottom of the outside hull. This can be seen in the pictures above. Then I secured the brass tubes using Stabilit Express and connected it all by rubber hose. Due to the motor mount the hoses couldn't very far onto the rear heat sink tubes, so I decided to put some hose clamps on to make sure the hoses stays on.
As this decreases buoyancy I decided to remove some of the ballast from the rear. I haven't tried the sub out after the upgrade, so I don't know how well it works yet. I'll report back when I know.
Robbe Sea Wolf V2Posted by xilsoe Feb 06, 2011 16:21:15 Yesterday I brought the Sea Wolf to the swimming lanes again to enjoy and to try out if the motor would still overheat. Well, it does I would say.
So now I have decided to make water cooling in the sub. Graupner makes a water cooling heat sink for size 600 motors that seems suitable. I also had a look at a Robbe water cooling heat sink, but I find that an odd design
I have ordered the Graupner heat sink. When it arrives I'll need to make some holes in the WTC and put some brass tubes through and then make an inlet somewhere at the bottom of the sub to make the water circulate. I don't know whether I should also make a special effort on the outlet to try dragging the water out to improve circulation? That can be added later if needed. I promise to post some pictures of the installation when I make it.
Further I completed rudder installation on New Jersey. I was intending to try it out last Friday, but then I fell ill Still working on recovery and hope to try out the New Jersey running gear in the coming week.
Robbe Sea Wolf V2Posted by xilsoe Jan 13, 2011 19:40:59 As a first step at reducing the motor heat in the Sea wolf, I decided to paint the motor black. At least that should help it cool down quicker, when exposed to free air.