Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Nov 22, 2016 20:52:03 After the bruiser body came back from my brother, who has painted it (Thanks!), I have been adding body parts and painting the small details on the body. Now it is almost done. I still need to paint it on the inside and to mark up the recessed lines around the doors and similar.
I had some special red lettering made for the tailgate as red is what works best on a white body. This was done by ebay seller adrianfirst. Thanks
I didn't put on any lines or stripes as it will always be possible to do that with a white body. By the way, the body isn't completely white. It is a little off. The exact colour is Tamiya TS-7.
I also bought some 1/12 scale music instruments to have something to put in the bed.
At some point I would like to add light to this truck, and perhaps I will put lights in the cabin to light up the details in there. I already have some LEDs for adding lights. If I was to re-do the interior, I would pick a lighter colour to make the interior more visible from the outside.
Pictures are the best description of what I have done. Have a look:
I think the next thing will be to make a hex conversion so I can select the wheels I prefer. I had a look at the RC4WD Yota axles, but they seem to have locked differentials which I am trying to avoid. So I'll have to find another solution if I am to do something about the different width of the axles.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Oct 26, 2016 17:02:41 After some research and time spent getting ideas, I decided I wanted agent Smith (From the Matrix) to drive my HiLux. He would make a quite insane driver and he doesn't strike me as one who would be wearing a seat belt. So no reason to do seat belts.
I ordered an agent Smith from ebay, but decided he didn't fit very well into the driver's seat and his head was undersized, For this reason I decided to modify the original driver figure into agent Smith as he would definitely fit well into the seat.
Using the figure from ebay and pictures from the internet I modified the figure using needle files, polystyrene sheet, filler some framing from PE parts and needles. Here is the result:
I know he isn't perfect, but this is the best I could do for now. Note the sunglasses and the missing ear piece. This indicates that this is after agent Smith has been "liberated" by Neo. Also note that the suit isn't completely black. Instead it is slightly green as is the fabric of the matrix.
Then I wanted to get him a gun. The standard gun for agents of the Matrix is a Desert Eagle. I could however not find one in an appropriate sacle, so he will end up with some other gun.
I hope you like him as much as I do and look forward to see him drive my HiLux
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jul 18, 2016 21:03:16 In order to keep the body mount hidden, I have made some modifications to the way the body mount was designed. As I believe I have mentioned before, I intend on using Velcro to mount the body. I haven't put the Velcro on as the body hasn't been painted yet, but I have made the mount points where the Velcro is going.
To have some area to mount the Velcro on, I bent some pieces of aluminium and used M3 spacers to lift them from the chassis. This way of mounting the body also means that I can adjust the body height if I decide to lift or lower the body. Right now the body height is about the same as it originally was. It may be more relevant if I decide to put some different wheels on the HiLux.
In order to make it easy to mount the body correctly with Velcro, I have put some guides below the body so it will only go on in the correct place. These guides can be seen in the pictures below.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jun 13, 2016 20:39:31 In order to allow the bed to be lowered, I have done some modifications to the electronics box. First of all I have cut the top off. That is absolutely necessary in order to make room for the lowered bed.
Then I needed to find some more room for electronics. I chose to replace the gear shift servo with a micro servo. There shouldn't be a lot of load on that servo so no problem in using a micro servo. As I am running the receiver on 2S LiPo I needed a high voltage servo. I ended up buying a HiTec HS-5070MH as that was what was available to me in Europe.
Due to the nature of changing gear I thought it was important to use a servo saver, I ordered a few, but found that the Team Associated part no. 21049 will go on this servo. The arm was too short and the ball link ball wouldn't fit onto the arm, so I made an extension out of a small piece of aluminium I had lying around. See the pictures below.
To get the servo mounted I made a mount out of aluminium that goes in place of the original servo support beams and to get the servo height right, I used some M2 spacers to lift the servo from the mount. (I bought a package of M2 spacers in various lengths from ebay)
After re-adjusting the gear shift as the manual describes, I installed the ESC and the receiver, so now I have the Bruiser is running again. I do however still need to complete the body and get the body mounts completed.
Here are some pictures of the updated RC installation:
So I'll have to do something about the antennas. Otherwise the electronics is done for now (That is until I start adding lights and sounds)
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe May 19, 2016 20:53:52 After completing the bed I thought the bodywork was done. Then I started looking into how the rear window should be mounted. I realized that the rear window needs to be glued in. The instructions don't say anything about this because the Bruiser has a cabin behind the rear window. So the window isn't used when building the Bruiser following the instructions.
Gluing in the rear window off course means more filling, priming and sanding. Here are some pictures of the body as it looks by now after adding the rear window plus filling and sanding.
Then there are the screw holes in front of the front fenders as can be seen in the pictures above. I had really decided to leave those. But then I changed my mind as I know I it will bother me if I don't fill those holes. So now I have started filling those holes as well.
Filling those holes is the next project. While doing that I am also doing some modifications to the chassis to make room for the lowered bed.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe May 17, 2016 14:40:35 I have decided to take a break from doing body work on the HiLux and do the interior instead.I have bought some cabin upgrades such as a detailed dashboard and doors. These are far better than the original parts. To install the upgrades I have cut the original one piece interior apart so I am using the seat and part of the floor. If getting the dashboard I will definitely recommend also getting the doors.
For colours I have decided to use Humbrol 156 (satin gray) for the main surfaces. For the floor and some other parts I have used Humbrol 33 (Flat black) Other places I have used Humbrol 85 (satin black) where a flat look isn't desirable. Examples being the steering wheel and the radio. Then I have used Humbrol 191 where a silver look is needed. Finally I used Humbrol 186 (a flat brown) for the wooden panels on the dashboard.
Then I added some details I thought were missing. I have added glass over the gauges, added some vent holes on top of the dashboard, made a better handle for the glove compartment and added levers for the viper control and the climate control.
Here are some pictures of the completed interior:
I also have a driver figure. I just haven't decided on how he should be painted yet and I think it will be some time before I make the driver figure. Next will be some more body work and chassis modifications to make the body fit.
Tamiya CR-01 UNIMOGPosted by xilsoe May 16, 2016 15:27:25 By lucky chance I found a snorkel for a TAMIYA U900 UNIMOG on ebay. I immediately purchased it as I have always wanted to have snorkel on my UNIMOG as the ones used in the Danish army had snorkels.
I was thinking I would never find a ready made snorkel, so I thought I would need to make one myself but what do you know? The next thing would be door handles
I have cut mine a little shorter as I think it is too long and the pipe lengths aren't exact as wanted them. Then I have fixed it at the top to resemble the original. I made this fix from a ø1mm brass rod where I cut a thread and then some M1 brass nuts and washers.
To fix it at the base I used the original fixing. Here I also cut the extending rod on the snorkel to length and then drilled a 1,6mm hole for the original screw.
Here are some pictures of the snorkel installed:
I still need to paint the fixing. I'll do that when I have something else to paint in the right colour.