Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jul 18, 2016 21:03:16 In order to keep the body mount hidden, I have made some modifications to the way the body mount was designed. As I believe I have mentioned before, I intend on using Velcro to mount the body. I haven't put the Velcro on as the body hasn't been painted yet, but I have made the mount points where the Velcro is going.
To have some area to mount the Velcro on, I bent some pieces of aluminium and used M3 spacers to lift them from the chassis. This way of mounting the body also means that I can adjust the body height if I decide to lift or lower the body. Right now the body height is about the same as it originally was. It may be more relevant if I decide to put some different wheels on the HiLux.
In order to make it easy to mount the body correctly with Velcro, I have put some guides below the body so it will only go on in the correct place. These guides can be seen in the pictures below.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jun 13, 2016 20:39:31 In order to allow the bed to be lowered, I have done some modifications to the electronics box. First of all I have cut the top off. That is absolutely necessary in order to make room for the lowered bed.
Then I needed to find some more room for electronics. I chose to replace the gear shift servo with a micro servo. There shouldn't be a lot of load on that servo so no problem in using a micro servo. As I am running the receiver on 2S LiPo I needed a high voltage servo. I ended up buying a HiTec HS-5070MH as that was what was available to me in Europe.
Due to the nature of changing gear I thought it was important to use a servo saver, I ordered a few, but found that the Team Associated part no. 21049 will go on this servo. The arm was too short and the ball link ball wouldn't fit onto the arm, so I made an extension out of a small piece of aluminium I had lying around. See the pictures below.
To get the servo mounted I made a mount out of aluminium that goes in place of the original servo support beams and to get the servo height right, I used some M2 spacers to lift the servo from the mount. (I bought a package of M2 spacers in various lengths from ebay)
After re-adjusting the gear shift as the manual describes, I installed the ESC and the receiver, so now I have the Bruiser is running again. I do however still need to complete the body and get the body mounts completed.
Here are some pictures of the updated RC installation:
So I'll have to do something about the antennas. Otherwise the electronics is done for now (That is until I start adding lights and sounds)
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe May 19, 2016 20:53:52 After completing the bed I thought the bodywork was done. Then I started looking into how the rear window should be mounted. I realized that the rear window needs to be glued in. The instructions don't say anything about this because the Bruiser has a cabin behind the rear window. So the window isn't used when building the Bruiser following the instructions.
Gluing in the rear window off course means more filling, priming and sanding. Here are some pictures of the body as it looks by now after adding the rear window plus filling and sanding.
Then there are the screw holes in front of the front fenders as can be seen in the pictures above. I had really decided to leave those. But then I changed my mind as I know I it will bother me if I don't fill those holes. So now I have started filling those holes as well.
Filling those holes is the next project. While doing that I am also doing some modifications to the chassis to make room for the lowered bed.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe May 17, 2016 14:40:35 I have decided to take a break from doing body work on the HiLux and do the interior instead.I have bought some cabin upgrades such as a detailed dashboard and doors. These are far better than the original parts. To install the upgrades I have cut the original one piece interior apart so I am using the seat and part of the floor. If getting the dashboard I will definitely recommend also getting the doors.
For colours I have decided to use Humbrol 156 (satin gray) for the main surfaces. For the floor and some other parts I have used Humbrol 33 (Flat black) Other places I have used Humbrol 85 (satin black) where a flat look isn't desirable. Examples being the steering wheel and the radio. Then I have used Humbrol 191 where a silver look is needed. Finally I used Humbrol 186 (a flat brown) for the wooden panels on the dashboard.
Then I added some details I thought were missing. I have added glass over the gauges, added some vent holes on top of the dashboard, made a better handle for the glove compartment and added levers for the viper control and the climate control.
Here are some pictures of the completed interior:
I also have a driver figure. I just haven't decided on how he should be painted yet and I think it will be some time before I make the driver figure. Next will be some more body work and chassis modifications to make the body fit.
Tamiya CR-01 UNIMOGPosted by xilsoe May 16, 2016 15:27:25 By lucky chance I found a snorkel for a TAMIYA U900 UNIMOG on ebay. I immediately purchased it as I have always wanted to have snorkel on my UNIMOG as the ones used in the Danish army had snorkels.
I was thinking I would never find a ready made snorkel, so I thought I would need to make one myself but what do you know? The next thing would be door handles
I have cut mine a little shorter as I think it is too long and the pipe lengths aren't exact as wanted them. Then I have fixed it at the top to resemble the original. I made this fix from a ø1mm brass rod where I cut a thread and then some M1 brass nuts and washers.
To fix it at the base I used the original fixing. Here I also cut the extending rod on the snorkel to length and then drilled a 1,6mm hole for the original screw.
Here are some pictures of the snorkel installed:
I still need to paint the fixing. I'll do that when I have something else to paint in the right colour.
Tamiya CR-01 UNIMOGPosted by xilsoe Feb 21, 2016 20:53:28 For some time I have wanted to add a sound module to my UNIMOG. From my Leopard tank I know how sound adds to an RC unit. After spending some time researching, I finally decided for a beier-electronic USM-RC-2. Link to beier-electronic.This was the only sound module I could find with UNIMOG U900 sounds available. Furthermore it has a build in amplifier so I wouldn't need a separate amplifier.
For speaker I thought that the ones that were offered along with this unit were too big. Further I wanted a cabinet so I went on ebay to see what I could find. I found this music angel that is about 50mm x 50 mm x 50 mm. That wasn't too big to go inside my UNIMOG. My intention always was to take the music angel apart and only use the speaker and the cabinet.
When I finally got my music angel and took it apart, I learned that the speaker didn't meet the required specifications. My solution to this was to get another music angel and take that one apart as well just to use the speaker. Then I coupled the speakers in series and they were up to the required specifications. Getting another speaker also solved my problem of sealing the other end of the cabinet. So now I have two speakers in the same cabinet. The only problem with having two speakers in the same cabinet is that the speaker's magnets are pushing apart. To keep both speakers in the cabinet I put a strip around the speakers and cabinet. That will also make it easy to take the speaker and cabinet apart if I need to do so.
In my view the USM-RC-2 is a very advanced piece of electronics with a lot of options and controls available. I am not really using much of what this unit can do. My Spektrum RX and TX are too limited to allow me to do much more with it. If I was to do more, I would transfer to my Futaba RX/TX. To program the USM-RC-2 a windows program is needed and I found the data cable very helpful when finding out why my sound unit didn't do as I wanted it to.
As I mentioned before I am not really using all the things this unit can do. I am just using it for sound. I have set it up so the engine sound will depend on the throttle. Then I turn the sound on and off when I turn the lights on and off. So lights and sounds come on at the same time.
Here are some pictures of my modified UNIMOG's interior:
I know pictures don't say a lot about audio. So I intend to make a video that demonstrates the audio.
I took it to the swimming pool that the model boat club has access to. In my view she performed more or less as I expected. She is not as fast as the VOSPER but she behaves really nicely on the water, even at full speed.If going slow she turn quite well but at higher speeds she doesn't turn as tightly. I am also quite satisfied that she lies quite high in the water. I was concerned she would lay low when the deck and the superstructure was added.