Tamiya CR-01 UNIMOGPosted by xilsoe Feb 21, 2016 20:53:28 For some time I have wanted to add a sound module to my UNIMOG. From my Leopard tank I know how sound adds to an RC unit. After spending some time researching, I finally decided for a beier-electronic USM-RC-2. Link to beier-electronic.This was the only sound module I could find with UNIMOG U900 sounds available. Furthermore it has a build in amplifier so I wouldn't need a separate amplifier.
For speaker I thought that the ones that were offered along with this unit were too big. Further I wanted a cabinet so I went on ebay to see what I could find. I found this music angel that is about 50mm x 50 mm x 50 mm. That wasn't too big to go inside my UNIMOG. My intention always was to take the music angel apart and only use the speaker and the cabinet.
When I finally got my music angel and took it apart, I learned that the speaker didn't meet the required specifications. My solution to this was to get another music angel and take that one apart as well just to use the speaker. Then I coupled the speakers in series and they were up to the required specifications. Getting another speaker also solved my problem of sealing the other end of the cabinet. So now I have two speakers in the same cabinet. The only problem with having two speakers in the same cabinet is that the speaker's magnets are pushing apart. To keep both speakers in the cabinet I put a strip around the speakers and cabinet. That will also make it easy to take the speaker and cabinet apart if I need to do so.
In my view the USM-RC-2 is a very advanced piece of electronics with a lot of options and controls available. I am not really using much of what this unit can do. My Spektrum RX and TX are too limited to allow me to do much more with it. If I was to do more, I would transfer to my Futaba RX/TX. To program the USM-RC-2 a windows program is needed and I found the data cable very helpful when finding out why my sound unit didn't do as I wanted it to.
As I mentioned before I am not really using all the things this unit can do. I am just using it for sound. I have set it up so the engine sound will depend on the throttle. Then I turn the sound on and off when I turn the lights on and off. So lights and sounds come on at the same time.
Here are some pictures of my modified UNIMOG's interior:
I know pictures don't say a lot about audio. So I intend to make a video that demonstrates the audio.
I took it to the swimming pool that the model boat club has access to. In my view she performed more or less as I expected. She is not as fast as the VOSPER but she behaves really nicely on the water, even at full speed.If going slow she turn quite well but at higher speeds she doesn't turn as tightly. I am also quite satisfied that she lies quite high in the water. I was concerned she would lay low when the deck and the superstructure was added.
Tamiya PT-15 Japan MTBPosted by xilsoe Dec 26, 2015 19:50:11 Finally I have found the time to build a transport box so I safely can transport my PT-15. This means that I have no excuses left for not launching my PT-15. I expect that to happen early 2016. To fix the boat properly in the box, I cut some foam with my foam cutter, which was also a first time for me.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Nov 05, 2015 20:37:30 After some cutting sanding and gluing I have lowered the bed of the Bruiser. I didn't modify the wheel boxes though I know they are not right as I don't know how to make them right. Here are some pictures of how I lowered the bed:
I know that's a lot of pictures. I will however rather have more as thy may be helpful to others.The next step will be to apply filler to the cracks and sand the filler down. I already started applying filler in some of the pictures. Hopefully my Bruiser will be more fun with a decent bed, where I can drive things around :)
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Oct 03, 2015 14:10:04 As I suspected, a big part of the work on the Bruiser is to do some body work. Holes have to be filled in and that kind of stuff. The largest project to me is to lower the bed. But also filling in all these holes and sanding the filler down seems to be taking a lot of time. I am about done with filling in the holes. Now the big project is to lower the bed. So far I have managed to cut the bed out. The next thing will be to re-attach the bed at a lower level and add the missing bed sides.
Tamiya CR-01 UNIMOGPosted by xilsoe Oct 03, 2015 13:59:43 After buying some different window vipers I finally found out which would work: RC4WD Mojave (Tree Z-B0025). Unfortunately only one of the vipers in the tree can be used, so two kits are needed. It is not a perfect fit right away. The blades have to be shortened and I did some twisting of the viper arm. To do the twisting, I had to heat the plastic in the places I wanted to make a twist. Careful with the heat as it can easily be too much. To capture the looks of the Danish army UNIMOG I had to paint the viper arms. Here are some pictures:
Now I am still looking for a way to make door handles and a schnorkel
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Aug 14, 2015 20:26:28 I don't know why I didn't post regarding this thing before? I bought the re-release TAMIYA Bruiser for myself as a birthday present in March and I started building it somewhere in April as I recall it.
There is a lot of things to do to build this thing. The most interesting being the 3 speed gear box, where a lot of attention needs to be put on the instructions to get it working right. I have added a slipper clutch as I want to use bead lock wheels. My recommendation would be to get the slipper clutch before assembling the gear box as else wise the gear box will need to taken apart once more.
Then I have replaced the motor for a 35 turn Novak motor that came with the ESC. I did however find the car was too speedy, so I replaced the pinion with a 13T pinion. This works out better in my mind. Due to the 3 speed gear box I find it is still plenty fast in the top gear.
I also bought the TAMIYA bead lock wheels for this car. To my understanding these are the original design from the Bruiser released in the 1980s. I am not really impressed with the looks of these wheels so I am looking for an alternative. They are somewhat easier to remove tough. I'll probably do a hex conversion at some point so I'll have a much larger set of wheel options. It does however seem that everyone tries to produce fancy looking modern wheels and nobody are making the type of steel rim commonly used in the 1980s.
The supplied tires are also somewhat lacking so I bought some Pro-Line Mashers and put those on. They don't look too different from the original tires.
After trying out the assembled chassis I decided that the steering needed to be improved into a more direct system. There are lots of descriptions on the WEB on how to do this. My solution was to make an aluminium bracket for the steering servo and mount it below the front chassis cross section. To do so I had to move the front dampers as can be seen in the pictures below. Further I needed a new steering push rod. To solve this and make it easily adjustable I bought a TAMIYA aluminium steering turn buckle push rod off ebay. As suspected this was too long, so I shortened it and cut a new thread. Take care to which end to cut if you are using this as directions for your modification so you don't cut the reverse direction thread, unless you have a reverse direction thread die for threading the shortened rod.
This kind of concludes the work I have done to the chassis until now. I might do more. In particular I am thinking of doing something to the electronics box to make room for lowering the bed of the body.
Here are some pictures:
As can be seen I have also started modifying the body. I'll cover the body modifications in another post. I hope you have found this useful