I don't know why I didn't post regarding this thing before? I bought the re-release TAMIYA Bruiser for myself as a birthday present in March and I started building it somewhere in April as I recall it.
There is a lot of things to do to build this thing. The most interesting being the 3 speed gear box, where a lot of attention needs to be put on the instructions to get it working right. I have added a slipper clutch as I want to use bead lock wheels. My recommendation would be to get the slipper clutch before assembling the gear box as else wise the gear box will need to taken apart once more.
Then I have replaced the motor for a 35 turn Novak motor that came with the ESC. I did however find the car was too speedy, so I replaced the pinion with a 13T pinion. This works out better in my mind. Due to the 3 speed gear box I find it is still plenty fast in the top gear.
I also bought the TAMIYA bead lock wheels for this car. To my understanding these are the original design from the Bruiser released in the 1980s. I am not really impressed with the looks of these wheels so I am looking for an alternative. They are somewhat easier to remove tough. I'll probably do a hex conversion at some point so I'll have a much larger set of wheel options. It does however seem that everyone tries to produce fancy looking modern wheels and nobody are making the type of steel rim commonly used in the 1980s.
The supplied tires are also somewhat lacking so I bought some Pro-Line Mashers and put those on. They don't look too different from the original tires.
After trying out the assembled chassis I decided that the steering needed to be improved into a more direct system. There are lots of descriptions on the WEB on how to do this. My solution was to make an aluminium bracket for the steering servo and mount it below the front chassis cross section. To do so I had to move the front dampers as can be seen in the pictures below. Further I needed a new steering push rod. To solve this and make it easily adjustable I bought a TAMIYA aluminium steering turn buckle push rod off ebay. As suspected this was too long, so I shortened it and cut a new thread. Take care to which end to cut if you are using this as directions for your modification so you don't cut the reverse direction thread, unless you have a reverse direction thread die for threading the shortened rod.
This kind of concludes the work I have done to the chassis until now. I might do more. In particular I am thinking of doing something to the electronics box to make room for lowering the bed of the body.
Here are some pictures: