Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Apr 21, 2017 21:18:30
As I finally had all the parts to install the PCB I designed, I updated the lights installation. 18 LEDs give a lot of soldering when wires and connectors are attached. I have completed it and I am happy about the result. Should a problem occur, it will be much easier to isolate and fix the problem. Further the wiring is much better in my view.
The wiring is in no way protected from water so I'll have to keep this car away moist
Here are some pictures of the PCB and the LEDs installed in the body:
This completes my Tamiya Bruiser build log. Future updates regarding the Bruiser will be modifications, repairs, upgrades, usage experiences and other posts relevant to this car.
I hope somebody on the big internet will find this build log interesting and useful
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Apr 02, 2017 21:00:45
As I stated earlier, I wasn't very happy with the lights installation I had done, so now I have made a PCB for doing power distribution. Basically it is a lot of connectors and resistors and a fuse. I have all the components for the board, but I am still missing some parts for the connectors so I haven't installed it in the Bruiser yet. I did however put components on one of the boards. The price for one board was the same as for 10 boards, so now I have 9 boards I don't use.
If anyone reading this is interested in one of the boards, please write a comment to this post stating so. Otherwise they might come in handy to me for other projects.
I know this is a simple board, but I am mighty proud of it anyway :)
Now I am looking forward to having it installed in the Bruiser.
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Mar 30, 2017 20:46:57
After some thinking and research I decided that 3D printed metal would be the best way to widen the track width of the front wheels on my Bruiser. So I opened openscad and designed what I call a hex extender. It is designed to match a 12mm hex and has a 5ø bore that allows a 5mm M4 barrel nut to fit in.
Before this can work, a hex conversion such as the RC4WD kit is needed. Then I used barrel nuts from a kit named: Aluminum Alloy 12mm Wheel Hub Hex Drive Adaptor +10mm Offset SCX10 WRAITH Black
i bought off ebay. It might also be possible to use longer wheel axles. I didn't experiment with that
The barrel nut fit very tightly into the extender so I ended up using a needle file to enlarge one of the extender bores. Further I put some grease in the bore of both extenders to avoid binding.
The 3D print was done by i.materialise.com. They claim that the strength is the same as regular aluminium. I didn't test it though. It is available from their WEB site here: https://i.materialise.com/shop/item/hexextender-v2
Here are some pictures:
That was my first 3D printed aluminium. So far I am happy with the result :)
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Feb 12, 2017 21:22:41
After a lot soldering I have finally installed lights on the Bruiser. 18 LEDs call for a lot of soldering. I am not very proud of how the the wiring looks, so I am not going to show it, I know I have at least one bad connection. Instead I am looking into having a PCB purpose made for power distribution. I am talking with an electrical engineer at work about how to do it. Making PCBs myself is something I would like to be able to do for this and other projects. I see it as a very useful skill to possess.
The beier-electronics USM-RC2 is very capable of making the lights just right. Light intensity can be adjusted for each output so it isn't necessary to calculate resistors and replace these to make adjustments. Furthermore there is a lot of modes and settings designed for controlling car lights so I am quite happy with this unit.
Regarding the tail lights: TAMIYA didn't make light buckets for the different colours of tail light. For this reason I added some small plastic strips inside the tail lights to separate the different lights. The most troublesome one is the reversing light as this is white will spread to both indicator and rear lights. To reduce the problem further I also reduced the reverse light intensity significantly. Regarding colours I believe it is better to use coloured LEDs in the colour the light is supposed to be. Relying on the coloured/painted plastic lenses and white LEDs may not give the best result
Here are some pictures of the HiLux with lights on:
I'll start looking into having this PCB made and perhaps increasing the track width of the front wheels. Otherwise it may be time to start looking into another project, enjoy running this car and show it off
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jan 27, 2017 20:32:40
As I was waiting for some cables to put lights in the Bruiser, I decided to make a set of license places. I have modelled them over the way truck license plates looked in the 80's in Denmark. The registration number is fictional. I bought the license plate reflective stickers off ebay and made the frames myself. Then I found some 2mm vinyl letters on ebay as well.
The frames are made of two layers of polystyrene sheet. I cut a hole in the top one to fit the license plate in and glued it on the bottom one. Then the frame was painted and the license plate stickers were fitted. After that I used the 2mm vinyl letters on the frame. Finally the license plates were fitted to the body using double sided tape.
Here are some pictures:
I have also learnt that I can use the dual rate on the transmitter to control more functions in the multi function module. Dual rate is however only available on channel 1 to 4 on my transmitter so I had to re-arrange some wires in the car to free up these channels.
Unless I can invent something more to do to this car the lights will be the next thing to do. I have bought a UTP network cable and a USB cable that I'll cut up and use for the wiring.
Thanks for looking
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Jan 16, 2017 20:28:08
Last week I found some time to install a multi function module in my HiLux. Once again I have chosen the Beier-electronic USM-RC2 as I have also used in my UNIMOG. This module has so many options that I haven't used in the UNIMOG. As the HiLux has so many lights, it is obvious to use this module as it will give me lots of control.
The USM-RC2 takes 4 input channels. To make the wiring simpler I bought an S-BUS decoder. This means that I only need a cable with 3 connectors going from the chassis to the body. Two wires for power and one for signal. Now I just wish that the USM-RC2 would accept an S-BUS signal so I could eliminate the S-BUS decoder. That would make the wiring even simpler and could give more options in the USM-RC2.
I didn't install lights yet, though I have the LEDs I need. I bought a set of diffused 3mm LEDs in different colours as I hope these will look better than the clear LEDs.
The sound module doesn't come with HiLux sounds. Instead I have used sounds from a Ford F350. Somebody probably put a Ford V8 in a HiLux. The transmitter needed some set-up to make it work right with with the USM-RC2. Now I have the idea of using the dual rate to allow me to control even more functions.
I also put some Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color on. I think it helps define the body parts and the hinges and latches on the tail gate. Especially it looks well at a distance. It was quite easy to use,
Here are some pictures of it all:
I think the next thing will be to make the lights. Otherwise I also have to make a set of license plates.
Thanks for looking
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Dec 14, 2016 20:44:21
As my brother suggested, I have painted the inside of the body in satin black (Humbol enamel 85). I couldn't get to all places on the inside body, but all places I could access have been painted black. The only place I didn't paint is the inside of the cabin. That is left unpainted so far. The paint on the inside of the body made me want to paint the axles as well. I think they would look better if these were also painted. I might do that at some point.
I learned that the CC-hand mirrors aren't very durable. I have broken both without much effort. I'll fix them with some brass rod. That should make them last. Then I have finally put Velcro on the body mounts, so now I can fix the body to the chassis. I needed the inside body paint, before the Velcro could go on.
Then I have received a light and sound module. So this will probably be one of the next things I will look into.
Here are pictures of the inside of the body and the broken mirror:
Tamiya BruiserPosted by xilsoe Nov 30, 2016 20:45:49
After getting the body into a state that is OK with me, I decided to do the RC4WD hex conversion. The front was straight forward and easy. I can't however say so for the rear. The issue that caused me most trouble was that the rear shafts fit very tightly into the differential gears. To get the differential gears onto the shafts, I ended up using a vice.
When I used the vice, I ended up getting the differential gears too far onto the axles, so I had to get them back out a little more. To do this I had to take the rear axle apart and even take the differential apart. This meant that I couldn't follow the assembly instructions from TAMIYA as parts had to go together in a different order when the differential gears are attached to the shafts.
The reason to do a hex conversion is to be able to use different wheels and tires. Right now I have put on a set of Pro line 1.9 XL Super Swampers. These are mounted on a set of G-made VR-01 wheels. In the centre I have put on a set of G-made wheel hubs. The bolts in the wheels have been replaced with some stainless steel hex head bolts whereas the nuts are the original ones that came with the wheels.
The RC4WD hex conversion doesn't fix the wheel offset problem. I do have some ideas on what to do about it. Currently my intention is to widen the track width at front so I won't need to modify the original parts.
Some pictures with the new wheels:
Now I think I'll start looking into some electronics for sound and lights as this car just wants exactly that